Epic Solo Hike Across England: Coast-to-Coast Adventure

The English countryside, with its rolling hills, dramatic moors, and stunning coastlines, might not be the first place that springs to mind for an intrepid hiking adventure. But for British journalist Emma Lunn, a solo trek across England proved to be a particularly memorable experience. This journey, filled with unexpected wildlife encounters and eccentric fellow travelers, highlights the healing powers of hiking and the joys of exploring closer to home.

Lale Arikoglu spoke with Emma Lunn about her solo walk, originally written about for a national newspaper. While Britain might not seem like the most challenging hiking destination, Emma's experience on the UK's Coast-to-Coast Walk proves that adventure can be found even in familiar landscapes.

Coast-to-Coast: A 190-Mile Challenge The Coast-to-Coast Walk, now designated as a national trail, spans 190 miles and crosses three stunning national parks: the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York Moors. Emma began her journey on the west coast at the Irish Sea and finished on Yorkshire's east coast. The traditional start involves dipping your toe in the Irish Sea, collecting a pebble, and carrying it across the country to throw into the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay.

Emma completed the hike in an ambitious 12 days, setting off in September. She was incredibly fortunate with the weather, experiencing minimal rain during her journey. To make the logistics easier, she booked her trip through a company that arranged her accommodation and transported her suitcase each day, allowing her to hike with just a daypack containing essentials like food, water, and her favorite snack, Kendal Mint Cake.

Food, Scenery, and Solitude Food stops along the way consisted mainly of classic English pub grub and hearty breakfasts to fuel the long days of hiking. One of the highlights of the trip was a challenging mountain route on the second day. Emma remembers sitting on the summit, enjoying breathtaking views and the peaceful solitude. On another particularly hot day, she found a secluded lake and took an impromptu swim.

Embracing Solo Travel Emma finds the solitude of solo walking incredibly rewarding. She believes that traveling alone encourages you to connect with strangers and step outside of your comfort zone. As she puts it, when you're alone, you become more confident and outgoing. You have the freedom to be yourself and control your own story.

Safety and Practicalities Aware of the unpredictable weather, Emma carried essential safety gear, including an emergency blanket and a first aid kit. She also shared her route with family and posted updates on social media, partly to reassure her relatives that she was safe. This trip was particularly poignant as it came shortly after her mother's death, and she found that walking helped her process her grief. She recalls her mother's voice in her head, urging her to be careful during challenging sections of the hike.

Unexpected Encounters and British Eccentricity The Coast-to-Coast Walk is full of uniquely British experiences. Honesty boxes, where locals leave food and drinks for hikers to purchase, are a common sight. One of the more memorable encounters involved a naked hiker, believed to be the "Naked Rambler," casually posing for photos on the trail. Then there were the cows. Emma admits to a lifelong fear of cows, making hiking through fields of them a personal challenge. She even took a dangerous detour once to avoid them, choosing the lesser of two evils: braving the cows rather than crossing train tracks. Adding to the charm of the hike, a local left a bag of treats for Emma and her travel companion, a teddy bear named Arnie. This act of kindness led to a connection with another couple who were hiking with a toy duck in memory of their deceased dog. Ultimately, the hike doesn't need to be expensive. While accommodation can be pricey, there are several ways to cut costs, such as packing your own lunches and taking advantage of supermarket snacks. The is on the walking itself, which is free.

Beyond England: Other Hiking Adventures Emma is also an avid international hiker, having explored trails in Australia and completed four routes on the Camino de Santiago. She highlights the Camino's affordability, sunny weather, and the unique spirit of camaraderie among pilgrims. She's also explored U.S. National Parks, including Yosemite and Yellowstone, although she admits that the presence of bears added a new level of excitement to those hikes. She recalls an encounter with a grizzly bear in the Canadian Rockies, where she humorously considered outrunning the slowest member of her group. Despite the occasional scare, Emma embraces the chaos and fear that can come with hiking, finding that these experiences often make for the best stories.